Lough Hyne – or Ine – Europe's oldest marine nature reserve, is a singular spot for ramblers, writes TONY DOHERTY
IF YOU TRAVEL along the R595 between Skibbereen and Baltimore, in west Cork, you will come across, on your left, signposts for Lough Ine and Lough Hyne: two names, one renowned ecological site. Lough Hyne became Europe’s first marine nature reserve, in 1981. With their rich diversity, its sheltered waters have been a living laboratory for marine ecologists for more than 130 years.
For the walker the wooded slopes of Knockomagh Hill (197m) provide a short but immensely attractive hike to oversee this exotic lough.
The walk starts at the little car park on the northeast corner of the lough, from where a well-constructed path leads to the summit. Pass through the gate by the Knockomagh Wood Nature Reserve sign. In summer explanatory leaflets sit in a little box by the sign. Go straight on past the Top of the Hill signpost. This route, known as the Northern Loop, contours up the lower slopes through coniferous plantation, then heads out on to ancient deciduous woodland. The path can be muddy in places after heavy rain.
You’ll come to the end of the Northern Loop at a junction that has a sign pointing uphill to Viewing Point 6. From here the slope gets steeper and the zigzags get shorter, but plenty of steps have been constructed to make progress easier.
This is my favourite part of the walk, as the path treads through portals of moss-covered oaks contorted over time by the fierce winds that blow in from the Atlantic during winter. In spring the woodland floor is bedecked with swathes of bluebells, interspersed with the bright green of nascent ferns.
In contrast with this magical landscape, the summit has been planted with conifers that now block the 360-degree view of west Cork. Luckily, an outcrop just below the summit looks down on the lough and along the coast from Toe Head to Baltimore and Cape Clear.
Incredibly, a line of scraggly spruce has been planted in front of this spot, too, but with luck a storm will put manners on them before they grow too high.
The channel to the sea, known as the Rapids, is just visible on the southeast corner of the lough, as are the laboratories of University College Cork. It’s worth visiting the audio- visual exhibition at Skibereen Heritage Centre, which explains the unique nature of the lake.
Castle Island, in the middle of the lake, has the ruins of an O’Driscoll castle. Legend has it that it was also the home of Labhraí Loinseach, the king with the donkey’s ears.
Descend by the way you came up as far as the Viewing Point 6 signpost. Keep to the right and continue downhill on a series of broad zigzags that will bring you back to the car park. If you haven’t had sufficient exercise yet, there is a lovely five-kilometre road walk on the western side of the lough, through a typical west Cork landscape.
If you want to end your day on a really special note, go for a meal in Baltimore and then come back to the lough for a moonlight kayaking trip with Atlantic Sea Kayaking. Suitable for all ages, it is a singular experience to drift slowly around the lough listening to the night sounds while the paddles scoop out sparkling cascades of phosphorescence.
Knockomagh Hill, Cork
How to get thereTurn off the R595 three kilometres west of Skibbereen.
Start and finishCar park on the northeast corner of the lough.
TimeTwo hours to hike up Knockomagh Hill; one and a half for the road walk.
DistanceTwo kilometres for the hillwalk, five kilometres for the road walk.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 89.
SuitabilityEasy route. Compass skills not required.
Food and accommodationBaltimore and Skibbereen.
Contactswww.atlantic seakayaking.com, 028-21058. Book four days in advance. www.skibheritage. com, 028-40900. Tuesday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.